Havasu Falls
I first learned about Havasu Falls while doing research for my solo road trip in 2020. I was disappointed to learn I’d be unable to visit during that trip, but l researched how to get a permit and in 2021, I was lucky enough to grab two off the transfer list.
Due to limited resources and keeping the health and safety of the Tribal members top of mind, the Havasupai Tribe kept the land closed to the public for all of 2021 and 2022, and our dates continued to be moved. Towards the end of last year, everyone got the great news — the reservation would be open again in 2023.
Next came the fun part: planning the trip. To be honest, we didn’t book anything until a few months out. There’s tons of recommendations and I found the Havasupai & Havasu Falls Facebook Group helpful, but most of my research came from searching the exact questions I needed answers to.
The first thing we booked were our flights to Las Vegas. We planned to rent a car and drive from there. Next, we decided to stay in Kingman the night before our reservation was set to begin so we booked a one-night stay. After the trip, we wanted time to relax so we decided to stay in Las Vegas before flying out. Lastly, and probably the most important, was making sure we had all the right gear.
I hadn’t gone backpacking since high school and while I own a tent, it’s not lightweight. I found a company called Basecamp Outdoor Gear located near the Las Vegas airport and they even had a two-person package for people going to Havasu Falls. This felt like our best option and ensured that we didn’t miss anything.
For food, we bought a few dehydrated meals from REI but they can be pricey so we also stocked up on oatmeal packets, trail mix, bars, light snacks, pasta and ramen. There’s a cafe located in the town of Supai and near the top of Havasu Falls there’s a fry bread stand, so you can bring one less meal if you plan to eat at either place.
Our reservations were from June 8-11. On June 7th, I flew from Los Angeles to Las Vegas and landed at 5:30pm. We picked up the rental car and headed straight to Basecamp Outdoor Gear. We stopped for dinner and made a quick Target run and then it was time for the two-hour drive to Kingman.
Once we arrived in Kingman, we packed everything into the backpacks, eliminated items once we saw how heavy the bags felt with the camping gear and had a short night of rest before getting up just before 6am to drive to the Grand Canyon Caverns Inn.
The check-in process was very straightforward. I filled out a form with our information and brought the printed out confirmation. After checking my ID and the papers, we were given the official permit. We were finally off to Hualapai Hilltop around 8am.
It’s a 60-mile drive from the beginning of the road to Hilltop. The drive has nice views but at this point, we were eager to get started. Admittedly, if I were to do this trip again, I’d start much earlier to avoid hiking in the midday sun.
We left Hilltop around 9am and it was already warm out. The first mile or two is straight down switchbacks but the rest of the hike is fairly flat.
The trail is beautiful.
We passed people hiking out who told us to enjoy, the scenery is gorgeous and when you get to the river and see the water, you’re reminded again why this trip is so sought after.
At the 8-mile mark, you will reach Supai Village. It’s very small and there are no photos or videos allowed out of respect for the locals.
We decided to stop at the cafe and grab something to eat. They take Apple Pay so you don’t need to worry about carrying cash, and they also have wi-fi if you want to text your friends or family to tell them you’re almost there.
The last two miles involve a few hills but before you know it, you see the steps going down to the campground and Havasu Falls is directly on your right. I’d seen it in pictures and videos, but nothing compares to being there in person. The surrounding nature is gorgeous and the contrast of the red walls with the bright blue water is breathtaking. We stopped to take some photos and continued to the campground.
You can choose to set up camp anywhere between the bottom of Havasu Falls and the top of Mooney Falls. Not all spots have picnic tables so if you can grab one, it’s definitely recommended. Other than that, you can be closer to the woods or right next to the river. It’s up to you.
Another factor to take into account is the proximity of your campsite to the Fern Spring. Having clean water while camping is important and the spring is constantly running with fresh water that doesn’t need to be filtered.
We spent our two full days at the campsite swimming in the falls, exploring the campground and visiting Mooney Falls and Beaver Falls. My detailed recap of our day trip to other waterfalls can be found [HERE].
Before we knew it, our time on the reservation was coming to an end. We decided to hike out early in order to avoid the heat, especially when we hit the switchbacks. The night before leaving, we packed everything that we could and went to bed early.
We got up around 2:15am and after packing the tent, sleeping pads and sleeping bags in the dark, we were on our way by 2:45am. We had headlamps but it was hard to pick the right path at times in the dark, especially in spots without clear markings.
I got to the uphill climb a little before 7am and reached Hualapai Hilltop at 7:45am, just as the sun was beginning to peak through the clouds. The hike out was not as bad as I thought it’d be and I definitely believe that avoiding the sun played a large part in that.
We changed, emptied the content of the backpacks into our personal bags and headed out on the 4-hour drive back to Las Vegas. After getting lunch, dropping off the gear and returning the rental car, we checked into the hotel at 2:30pm and spent the rest of the day doing absolutely nothing.
I would absolutely recommend a trip to Havasupai & Havasu Falls. If you’re feeling anxious about backpacking, know that people of all ages with varying levels of experience have successfully completed this trip. The views are worth the trek — I can promise you that.
